MAKING THE FINAL JACKET

I found putting the lining into the jacket very difficult as I got easily confused with turning everything inside out and working this way. It was especially difficult sewing around the back vent.

MAKING THE JACKET LINING PATTERN

I struggled with the lining pattern as I found it difficult to visualise as I have never done one before.  With help I managed to create my pattern and get my lining cut out.

MAKING THE FINAL JACKET

I found that I was very pushed for time in making my final jacket as I wanted it to be as perfect as it could be which often meant a lot of un-picking and re-sewing. I feel that I have adequate sewing skills but need to practice putting in sleeves as I struggled with the ease.

TOILE FITTING

Both sleeves will be the contrast (dark brown) colour but I ran out of dyed fabric for my toile.

In my toile fitting there were no alterations to make apart from the minor pattern errors mentioned earlier. I drew on the button placement and checked that the sleeve was loose enough to be rolled up to expose lining. 

FULL TOILE

When I had made my full toile I didn’t find any problems with the placement of style details such as the collar, panels and yokes. I was happy with the positioning and size of the jetted pocket but in order to manufacture it easily on my final jacket I decided to slightly alter the pattern and step the jetted area down 2.4cm's (Inc seam allowance.) I also noticed that I had made a few errors in the length of some of my pattern pieces for my bodice; I altered these to make sure the all lined up. The other problem I noticed was that one of my yokes was 1cm out from matching up to the back yoke. I changed this on the pattern to match exactly.  



HALF TOILE

When making my half toile I decided to make the right side (as worn) as this was the most technically difficult as it involved a jetted pocket that I needed to check the positioning of. After making my half toile the things I noticed that I needed to change were, adding 4cm into the side seam and to draw on the positioning of my pocket to my pattern.

MAKING MY PATTERN

I found that making the pattern for my jacket was more difficult than expected. Although the design looks fairly simple, the asymmetry created a lot of technical difficulty. The Asymmetric collar meant I had to accurately measure the lengths of the yokes and reveres to make sure that it lined up perfectly. The yokes also needed to join onto the main body of the jacket at the top of the revere, this meant a lot of seams met at unusual angles and required a lot of measuring, checking and piecing together.

FINAL DESIGN

I decided on this as my final design as I felt it was my strongest. It has taken inspiration from my research and the distortion which can be caused by incognito.

LONDON FABRIC TRIP

I went to London Berwick Street to search for suiting fabric. I was looking for shades of brown in 100% wool. This proved difficult as I needed two fabrics as my designs were all two tone. Finding brown suiting that looked good together was not easy. I found two and got some swatches.

When I went back to Birmingham I decided to go to the fabric shops there. I searched in Barry’s and Fancy Silk Store but they did not have many fabrics that were 100% wool, and not many were brown. However I did find two fabrics that looked great together but one was wool and acrylic and the other wool and polyester. It was decided that these were my best options and were good enough quality. The wool and acrylic had some stretch in it, but fusing removed most of this, meaning it was not a problem.

DESIGNS

I found designing 60 designs very difficult at first and started to worry about my pathway choice, but when I got into it and started to change details and draw as I thought I found I had more than enough ideas. however I do feel I need to get quicker at drawing as I found I had to rush a few of them as I ran out of time meaning they did not look as good as they could have been.

CONCEPT PAGES

MARK BORTHWICK PHOTOGRAPHY

As I did with the Nan Goldin photos, I moved the book whilst scanning in some of these mark Borthwick photos.

NAN GOLDIN

I found some interesting images in a book of Nan Goldin’s work but I found that when i moved them on the scanner they created a nicely distorted image of which I could take inspiration for shape and colour.

John Stezaker

The collaged faces with sharp angles on them are the ones that inspired me the most from this work by John Stezaker. The way the face is Asymmetric and distorted. 



Fernanda Montoro Photography

Fernanda Montoro is a Polaroid photographer. I felt these images were very powerful. Aside from the faces being covered the graininess of the technique means that the subjects are not easily seen.

STARTING MY RESEARCH...

From the title INCOGNITO I began my research. I focused it on identity and how this can be hidden. From people wearing masks and photos of the back of people’s heads to identical twins, who often find it hard to find their own separate identities. Cross dressers, and blurred faces.

INCOGNITO

–adjective

1.

having one's identity concealed, as under an assumed name, especially to avoid notice or formal attentions.

–adverb

2.

with the real identity concealed: to travel incognito.

–noun

3.

a person who is incognito.

4.

the state of being incognito.

5.

the disguise or character assumed by an incognito.

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—Synonyms 1.  disguised, undisclosed, unidentified.